Tongass National Forest covers 16.7 million acres of Southeast Alaska, making it the largest national forest in the United States by a margin that is difficult to grasp until you look at a map. The forest spans the Alaska Panhandle from the Canadian border near Ketchikan north to the Gulf of Alaska near Yakutat, encompassing the entire Inside Passage archipelago: hundreds of islands, fjords, glacial valleys, and coastal mountain ranges draped in temperate rainforest. The cities of Juneau, Ketchikan, Sitka, Wrangell, and Petersburg all sit within the forest boundaries, connected to each other not by roads but by water and air. This is wilderness at a scale that has no parallel in the lower 48, and the ecosystem reflects it.
The Tongass is the largest temperate rainforest in the world, a fact that becomes immediately apparent the moment you step off a plane. Old-growth Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and red cedar grow in dense, dripping canopy over a forest floor carpeted with moss, devil's club, and ferns. Salmon runs pulse through hundreds of rivers and streams every summer and fall, feeding brown bears, bald eagles, wolves, and orcas in a food web that has operated here since the end of the last ice age. The forest receives between 60 and 160 inches of precipitation annually, and there is no real dry season. Rain gear is not optional.
Why Tongass Stands Out
Scale and wilderness. At 16.7 million acres, the Tongass is larger than West Virginia. Its 19 wilderness areas (including Admiralty Island National Monument and Misty Fiords National Monument) protect some of the most intact temperate rainforest on the planet. There are more than 11,000 miles of coastline within the forest boundary. Much of the interior remains roadless and accessible only by floatplane or boat, which keeps visitor pressure low compared to any national forest in the contiguous United States.
Temperate rainforest ecosystem. The old-growth forests of the Tongass represent an ecosystem that has largely been logged out of the lower 48. Trees here are hundreds of years old. The forest floor supports a density of species (mosses, lichens, ferns, fungi, amphibians, invertebrates) that reflects millennia of undisturbed succession. For anyone who has only seen national forests in the American West or East, the Tongass is a fundamentally different experience.
Brown bear, eagle, and salmon country. Admiralty Island, accessible by floatplane from Juneau, has one of the highest concentrations of brown bears in North America, estimated at one bear per square mile. The island is sometimes called Kootznoowoo, meaning "fortress of the bears," by the Tlingit people who have lived in this region for thousands of years. Bald eagles are so common in Southeast Alaska that they lose their novelty within a day or two. Five species of Pacific salmon run through Tongass streams: chinook, coho, sockeye, pink, and chum. The runs peak in late July through September depending on species, and the wildlife activity around salmon streams during this period is extraordinary.
Best Trails
Mount Roberts Trail
The most prominent hike from Juneau. The trail climbs 3,819 feet from the waterfront neighborhood of Juneau to the alpine ridge of Mount Roberts, with panoramic views of Gastineau Channel, Douglas Island, and the Juneau Icefield. The upper section is above treeline and exposed; summit days are rare given the weather, but even partial-cloud days offer impressive views. The Mount Roberts Tramway provides an alternative start from the cruise ship dock if you want to skip the lower forest section.
Perseverance Trail
Juneau's most historically significant trail. The route follows Gold Creek into the canyon where gold was first discovered in Alaska in 1880, passing ruins of the Perseverance Mine and the Alaska-Juneau Gold Mine along the way. The trail is well-maintained, relatively flat compared to Juneau's other hikes, and lined with wildflowers in summer. It connects to the Mount Roberts Trail for those wanting a full-day loop.
Deer Mountain Trail
The signature hike from Ketchikan. This 4.7-mile out-and-back climbs 3,001 feet to a rocky summit above treeline with sweeping views of Ketchikan, the Tongass Narrows, and Clarence Strait. The trail starts from Ketchikan city limits, making it walkable from the cruise ship dock, a rarity for a hike this rewarding.
Indian River Trail
The best easy trail in the Sitka area. The route follows the Indian River through old-growth Sitka spruce forest for 4.5 miles with only 300 feet of elevation gain. Salmon spawn in the river in August and September, drawing brown bears within plain sight of the trail. The combination of accessible old-growth forest, active wildlife, and low difficulty makes this one of the most recommended hikes in Southeast Alaska for visitors who want a genuine forest experience without a strenuous climb.
Permits and Passes
Day hiking on most Tongass trails requires no permit and no fee. The forest operates on a different model from popular lower-48 forests with reservation-heavy trailheads. The exceptions are a handful of popular wildlife viewing sites, most notably the Anan Wildlife Observatory near Wrangell, which requires a timed-entry permit ($10/person) from July 5 through August 25 to manage bear viewing pressure.
Developed campgrounds charge $10 to $16 per night for sites with amenities. Remote USFS recreation cabins are available throughout the Tongass for $25 to $45 per night and must be reserved through Recreation.gov. These cabins are often accessible only by floatplane or boat and represent some of the most remote overnight experiences available on public land in the United States.
America the Beautiful passes are accepted at fee sites including campgrounds. Veterans and active-duty service members should review the full pass options, as the Military Annual Pass provides free access to federal fee sites.
Camping
Developed campgrounds in the Tongass are clustered around road-accessible areas near Ketchikan, Juneau, and Petersburg. Signal Creek Campground on Tongass Highway near Ketchikan is one of the most popular, offering 24 sites with vault toilets and access to Ward Lake. These fill on summer weekends and reservations through Recreation.gov are advisable from June through August.
The real draw for many Tongass visitors is the cabin system. The Tongass has more than 150 USFS recreation cabins scattered across the forest, accessible by floatplane, boat, or trail. Cabins sleep 4 to 8 people and provide a wood stove, bunks, an outhouse, and a skiff at lake cabins. A cabin on a remote lake with brown bears fishing 200 yards away is a realistic experience here, not a brochure fantasy. Reservations open six months in advance and popular cabins book immediately. Plan well ahead.
Dispersed camping is permitted throughout the Tongass outside of designated areas and within 100 feet of water only where explicitly allowed. Leave No Trace principles apply, and proper food storage is important in bear country. Review bear canister requirements before any overnight trip in the backcountry.
When to Visit
May and June bring long days, peak wildflower bloom, and fewer visitors than midsummer. Weather is unsettled but temperatures are mild, typically 45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit in coastal towns. Snow lingers at elevation into June.
July and August are the driest and warmest months, with Ketchikan averaging 7 to 8 inches of rain in July compared to 16 inches in October. These are also the busiest months for cruise ships and tourists. Salmon runs begin in July for early species and peak for pink and coho salmon through August and September. Wildlife activity around salmon streams is intense during this period.
September brings the height of the salmon runs and the beginning of fall color, which is brief and muted compared to the Appalachians but still noticeable in alders and cottonwoods along stream corridors. Ferry and floatplane schedules begin to thin by late September.
October through April is when most of Southeast Alaska experiences heavy precipitation, shortened days, and limited trail access at elevation due to snow and ice. Shoulder-season travel is possible for experienced visitors who accept the weather conditions, but the vast majority of recreation activity concentrates in the May through September window.
Getting There
Southeast Alaska has no road connection to the rest of North America. Every visitor arrives by air or sea.
By air: Alaska Airlines serves Juneau (JNU), Ketchikan (KTN), and Sitka (SIT) from Seattle and other Alaska hubs. Regional carriers including Ravn Alaska and smaller floatplane operators connect smaller communities. Floatplane charters from Juneau, Ketchikan, and Wrangell provide access to remote cabins and wilderness areas.
By ferry: The Alaska Marine Highway (AMHS) runs year-round service from Bellingham, Washington through the Inside Passage to Southeast Alaska communities. The journey from Bellingham to Ketchikan takes approximately 38 hours; Juneau is about 3 to 4 days by ferry. The ferry is an experience in itself and allows passengers to bring vehicles, which opens up road-accessible areas in each community. Schedules and fares are available at dot.state.ak.us/amhs.
Within the region: Each Tongass community is its own self-contained access point. There are no roads between Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg, Sitka, and Juneau. Locals travel by floatplane, ferry, and boat. For visitors, the most practical approach is to pick one or two communities as bases and day-trip from there. Checking conditions before you go is especially important in Southeast Alaska, where weather moves fast and floatplane or ferry delays are common.
Practical Tips
Rain gear is the first item to pack. A waterproof jacket alone is not enough for Southeast Alaska. Waterproof pants and waterproof boots or gaiters keep you comfortable on trails that are wet underfoot even on dry days. Many experienced visitors bring a second set of dry clothes in a waterproof stuff sack.
Brown bears are everywhere and mostly go about their business undisturbed. Carry bear spray on all backcountry trips and know how to use it. Make noise on trails in dense vegetation or near streams. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game publishes current bear safety guidance; follow it rather than informal advice. Never approach a bear at a salmon stream regardless of distance.
Tidal awareness matters for coastal routes. Many beach walks and kayaking access points in the Tongass are tidal. Check current tide tables before any coastal trip. A beach accessible at low tide can become impassable at high tide in a matter of hours.
Water is generally clean but filter anyway. Streams and lakes in the Tongass are typically cold and clear, but beaver giardia and other contaminants are present throughout Southeast Alaska. Carry a filter or treat all water.
Cell service is limited. Most Tongass trails, even those near Juneau and Ketchikan, lose cell service quickly. Download offline maps before departing. A satellite communicator is worth considering for any backcountry or remote cabin trip.
Mosquitoes and no-see-ums peak in June and July. Bug repellent and a head net are useful, particularly near wetlands and streams.
