Overview
The Devil's Backbone Loop traverses the namesake wilderness in the Ava Ranger District of Mark Twain National Forest. The Devil's Backbone Wilderness protects a narrow dolomite ridge that rises above the surrounding forest with steep drops on both sides hence the name and the trail that traverses it delivers the most dramatic scenery in this section of the Ozarks. At 800 feet of elevation gain over 7 miles, this is the most demanding loop in the forest and one of the most rewarding.
The Ozarks rarely show themselves as mountains, but the Devil's Backbone is an exception. The dolomite caprock resists erosion while the softer rock below weathers away, leaving a ridge that stands well above the creek drainages on either side. Views from the ridge extend across miles of forested hills with no roads or structures visible a rare sight in the populated Midwest. The forest on and below the ridge is classic Ozark: open-canopy oak and hickory on the dry, exposed ridgetop, with denser, moister woodland in the drainages.
Spring brings exceptional wildflowers in the creek drainages, including wild columbine, trillium, and hepatica. Fall color on the deciduous ridge is excellent from mid-October. Summer visits are possible but the exposed ridge is hot and water sources are limited.
The Route
Miles 0 to 2: From the Forest Road 4195 trailhead, the loop initially descends into a creek drainage through dense second-growth hardwood. This section follows the creek upstream for about a mile before the trail turns sharply uphill to gain the ridge. The climb is the steepest section of the loop, gaining about 400 feet in a little under a mile.
Miles 2 to 4.5: The ridge traverse is the highlight of the route. The trail follows the narrow spine of the Devil's Backbone with long views on both sides. The trail surface here is exposed dolomite in places, requiring careful footing. A cleared viewpoint around mile 3.5 offers the best panorama of the surrounding Ozark hills. The ridge section has no water sources.
Miles 4.5 to 7: The descent off the far end of the ridge drops steeply into the drainage on the opposite side of the loop. The creek at the bottom is seasonal but typically running in spring. The loop returns along the lower terrain to the trailhead.
When to Visit
April through June and September through November are the best windows. Wildflowers peak in April and May. Fall color peaks in mid to late October. Summer is hot and the exposed ridge has no shade. Winter visits are possible on mild days the Ozark winters are intermittent rather than severe.
Check conditions with the Ava Ranger District before visiting. The trailhead access road may be impassable after heavy rain.
What to Bring
- Many hikers carry 2-2.5 liters of water, as the ridge section is long and exposed with no water sources. Individual needs vary and summer heat increases requirements.
- Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support for the dolomite scrambling
- Tick repellent from April through October
- Trekking poles helpful on the steep descent
- Sunscreen for the exposed ridge
Practical Details
No facilities at the trailhead. Wilderness regulations apply in the Devil's Backbone Wilderness: no mechanized equipment. Dispersed camping is permitted. Follow Leave No Trace principles. Copperhead snakes are present in the rocky terrain; watch footing carefully on the ridge.
See the bear canister requirements guide for food storage practices if camping overnight.
Getting There
From Ava, Missouri, take County Road B west approximately 8 miles, then Forest Road 4195 north to the trailhead. Ava is in Douglas County on US-5, approximately 60 miles east of Springfield. The Ava Ranger District office can provide current conditions and specific directions. GPS coordinates are approximately 36.85°N, 92.30°W.